Exploring Frank Lloyd Wright In Buffalo And Serenity On Lake Ontario 0
My theory is that a real traveler is able to find things that are attractive even in the most unlikely places. Well, Buffalo probably not make the “main purpose trip” list for a while, but I’ve done some research on it and I think it’s time to explore the Buffalo, the closest American city to Toronto, south of Niagara Falls and right across the border in Fort Erie.
So fellow travel lovers and architecture Shauna and I went early yesterday morning to make the 2 hour trip to Buffalo. We chose the Fort Erie border and fortunately was not very busy.
Approaching the city we immediately took a wrong turn and headed south on Highway 5 away from downtown. But we must look at Buffalo beach, a marina in this area include a rather spectacular and some old rundown industrial buildings. We turned itself around and headed back downtown. Because the tourist information office is closed on Sunday we thought we would stop at the Hampton Inn & Suites Hotel to pick up some tourist brochures and city maps. Another pleasant experience: The lady at the front desk very helpful, providing us with a brochure some printouts on how to get to two of the most important heritage sites in Buffalo architecture: Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House and other important Buffalo work, Graycliff Mansion.
After parking the car on Delaware Avenue at about 10:30 am, the one thing that surprised us immediately was how empty the streets. There was hardly any foot traffic at all and very few vehicles passing by.
We parked our car close to Niagara Square and started exploration on foot. First on the agenda is the Buffalo City Hall, Art Deco skyscraper that monumental completed in 1931, built of orange-colored stone with intricate details and colorful ornaments.
We do a small circle in the center and cover the building some really exciting. Red color and detailed ornamentation of Louis Sullivan Building Guarantee really caught our imagination. We pass St Paul’s Cathedral and past the Main Street trolley tracks we found Elicott House Square. Eastern entrance to the building was actually open so we entered. This building was founded in 1896 according to designs by Daniel Burnham, one of Chicago’s most famous architects. This building was built around a large interior court covered by a glass block ceiling held by a steel frame decorated. We commented on how similar this design is one of Chicago’s most famous buildings, “rookery”, and it was not until this morning I realized that both buildings were created by the same architect.
This is an extraordinary building impresses with beautiful sweeping staircase and intricate mosaic covering the entire page. From the Field House Ellicot we headed to the Hotel Lafayette, a handsome red brick and white terra cotta French Renaissance-style building built in anticipation of the expected influx of visitors at the Pan-American Exposition in 1901. Due to financial difficulties, but it was not opened until 1904. From there we checked out the General Electric Tower, a handsome white Terracotta clad structure dating back to 1912.
Electricity tower right next to the building by chance another interesting: Buffalo Savings Bank, Buffalo building boom of realizing the second half of the 19th century. In the late 1890s – peak of the golden age of Buffalo – the bank held a competition for a new headquarters. Contest was won by Green & Wicks, turn-of-the-century Buffalo major architectural firms. Their design projected stability, security, and the signature feature is a domed building aspiration.The gold leaf.
After the Buffalo Savings Bank we explored the Genesee Building which is currently the Hyatt Regency Hotel. Just as we finished exploring that building the heavens opened and there is heavy rain so we sat in front of the Hyatt and took in the street scene. We are facing Main Street, the road is now a pedestrian zone and holds the line light rail rapid transit Buffalo. One thing we noticed consistently in Buffalo is the absence of street-level shops and restaurants. Many modern administrative buildings in Buffalo have a rather strong feelings and the non-welcome, and several new buildings dating back to the 50s and then have jail almost feel them. The resulting scarcity of street-level store fronts combined with the utter lack of pedestrians (certainly on the weekend) really gives downtown Buffalo a rather eerie deserted feel, and the absence of the city center of our most striking impression of Buffalo. Judging from the classic styled street lamps with blooming planters, however, the city seems to have been working on beautifying the city center.
We started back in the car and past the Hotel Statler, which is not actually a hotel anymore, but apparently a building full of lawyer’s office. We have seen in the impressive lobby which features French chandeliers from the early 20th century. I took some pictures, but the security guard stopped me, told me photography is not allowed. We were really interesting chat after this long and he commented on the economic problems of Buffalo and how in his opinion, the current mayor is only making things worse. One example of the economic problems the city is that the grand ballroom at the Hotel Statler only recently reopened after being closed since 1957. Furthermore, building owners had previously tried to create a food court in the basement and had opened the main floor, but ran out of money before the food court could be built. So now you have an opening rather prominent on the ground floor with views to the empty basement without stores or food outlets. Contact us also comment on the reasons why the city of Buffalo was without a man, and he said that all the locals buy them in suburban malls and big warehouse stories. That, combined with the economic woes of the city, seems to have created a flight to the suburbs that has left the city’s core rather lifeless on the weekend.
Well, we had to move to our other tourist gems of architecture, Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House. Darwin Martin was a high level executive with the Larkin Soap Company and brother-in-law had encouraged Darwin to seek the work of Wright in Oak Park, a suburb of Chicago. After familiarizing himself with Wright’s work, he brought him to Buffalo in November 1902 to build a house for his brother, Barton House, with a size of about 4000 feet, and then to build the main house, a 15,000 square foot Prairie Style home, characterized by Wright’s rigorous and consistent cross plan, the pier and cantilevers, and the principles of other prairie home. After years of neglect, Martin house is now under renovation to restore back to its original grandeur of an authentic early 1900′s.
Now the empty buildings and some great photographs illustrate the former decor and furnishings. It’s very visible that this building has been neglected for a long time and the Martin House Restoration Corporation is working very hard to return back to the authentic 1907 characteristics, even to the level of rebuilding the pergola and the coach house which was destroyed by a previous owner. The tour lasts approximately 90 minutes and provided by the tour guides are very excited and all the volunteer staff at the gift shop and the chaperone were very helpful. We even received a glass of water in the 60s style kitchen of House Martin will be torn out and replaced with more authentic furnishings as the renovation continues.
After the damp heat inside the Martin and Barton Houses we were glad to get out to cool. We passed Park East Side Historic District surrounding Delaware Park, the creation of the famous landscape designer Frederick Law Olmstead, who also designed Central Park. The area around Delaware Park and Forest Lawn Cemetery is a beautiful part of town with houses and beautifully manicured lawns, and beauty is most visible on Millionaires Row ‘along Delaware Avenue. There is more traffic and street life in the Buffalo, the atmosphere pleasant and impressive residential areas.
We headed to the nearby Niagara River and drove along the Seaway Trail, crossed Grand Island and continued on the outskirts of Niagara Falls, NY, right along the Niagara River to Lewiston. Drive north of Niagara Falls State Park Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario is gorgeous, with old houses overlooking the beautiful Niagara River, huge trees hanging 2-lane country road, with well kept properties on either side of the road. Our lovely greasy lunch outside, enjoying the breeze (hey, you do not have to eat healthy every day) and then continued our journey all the way to Fort Niagara State Park, admiring the villas and estates.
We have chosen to cross the border at the Queenston-Lewiston Bridge, but construction work had caused confusing detours and a local New York State father and son team stopped their car when they saw us in the street, staring at maps, trying to figure how to get to the border . They rolled down the window and said they would guide us to the bridge, which they did. We followed them for about 10 minutes through the maze of detour signs until we found the bridge and headed back to Canada. We were both very impressed with the friendliness and helpful locals.
Back on the Canadian side we drove along the Niagara Parkway and stopped at the beautiful little village of Niagara-on-the-Lake. NOTL calls itself “the prettiest village in Ontario”, and they may be right. The village is home to a beautifully maintained Victorian homes, overflowing flower baskets, souvenir shops, cafes, bed and breakfasts, as well as the renowned Shaw Festival, and for many Ontarians it is a favorite destination for a quick weekend getaway.
From Niagara-on-the-Lake we headed through vineyards and orchards to St. Catharines, and to the Port Dalhousie area of beach entertainment, do not forget to stop by the road-side fruit stall to buy ripe red cherries and nuclear-size apricots fresh from the tree . About 20 minutes from NOTL, Port Dalhousie harbor marina and pier length and variety of outdoor terrace restaurant, ice cream parlors, souvenir shops and other entertainment.
The atmosphere in Port Dalhousie was almost like the California seaside resort town with rollerbladers, walkers, beach volleyball players, boaters and pedestrians stroll leisurely through the village and on the dock. The sun began to set up and the lake laid out before us like an ocean, with no shoreline visible on the other. It’s a beautiful summer evening and I feel like I want to spend a whole week in this place happen. But no luck, we should go back to Toronto after our exciting girls-only trip to Buffalo and Niagara Peninsula.
We have to explore some outstanding architectural gems, connected with the legacy of Frank Lloyd Wright, a lovely greasy lunch right next to the Niagara River, enjoying the hospitality and the usefulness of the local population York State New, and back in home territory, we jump all Lake Ontario shore to enjoy fresh fruit, frozen yogurt and extraordinary afternoon relaxing on the beach. Does not get much better than that …..